2023 Cullen ‘Kevin John’ Chardonnay

99 points, Ray Jordan
Great vintage, great wine. It’s the perfect combination. This is right up there with any previous Cullen Chardonnay, and if someone argued it to be, the best wouldn’t put up much of a fight. Follows the Cullen biodynamic approach which sees the fruit harvested by hand, whole bunch basket pressed and then fermented in a mix of concrete eggs, amphorae and biodynamic puncheons. The attention to biodynamics is one of total commitment. Engaging aromas of white peach and cumquat with a gentle vanilla bean and lemon curd character. An edge of grapefruit and quince with a sliced pear character adds further complexity. The palate is an incredibly powerful expression of a stone fruit combination complemented by a sprinkle of turmeric and lemon zest. The dry savoury and slightly chalky finish completes a remarkable wine.

Where does it sit in the Cullen gallery? You be the judge.

98 points. Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot
From the excellent 2023 vintage in Margaret River, the Kevin John Chardonnay is Cullen’s ‘standard’ Chardonnay, and what a wine. Never less than thrilling these days, the fruit for this wine was harvested over a three week period and then whole bunch pressed before fermentation in a mix of vessels – biodynamic puncheons, amphorae and a concrete egg. Eight months maturation in the puncheons, 80% of which were new. The wine is 100% Gin Gin clone. Balance, elegance and complexity, even at this early stage, are the hallmarks for here. Great energy, the nose gives us notes of nuts/cashews, peaches, stonefruit, a hint of riverstones and orange blossoms. Vanilla, florals, honeycomb and a hint of crisp pear. The focus here is superb, through to an impressively long finish. Expect this to drink superbly for at least fifteen years.