Gippsland

Gippsland is a sparsely planted but quietly prestigious Victorian region east of Melbourne, best known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of real intensity and structure. Producers like Bass Phillip have built international reputations from the area's cool, varied sites.

The Pinot Noir tends toward depth and savoury detail, working with duck, game, mushroom dishes and aged hard cheeses. Gippsland Chardonnay shows weight and complexity, suiting richer seafood, roast chicken and creamy pasta. The best bottles reward time in the cellar.