2024 Domaine Lamy-Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Blanc

Morgeot is Chassagne's largest premier cru at over fifty hectares, and where you sit within it matters. Jasper Morris identifies Lamy-Pillot's 1.7-hectare white as effectively Petits Clos - the upper section above the road that cuts through the lower part of the cru, where white marl and stones give tension and focus rather than the weight of the flatter land below. Vines planted in 1970, south-east facing.

Effectively but not quite entirely Petits Clos. Fresh apple and baked apple, so a little more ripeness. Fine body here, and even though it is Petits Clos, above the Route des Grands Crus, this does have the solid weight of Morgeot. - Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (93 pts)

The most serious white in the range and the most generously oaked, at 40% new. The domaine is candid that the first years are difficult - the wine closes down and stays a little four-square - but says it develops considerably on its structure across five to fifteen years. Jancis Robinson MW rated it 16.5+/20: rich and appealing, with lots of focus and intensity.